For the current pre-fall, Sarah Burton turned to Alexander McQueen’s spring 1997 collection, La Poupee.
This archival research led Burton and the team to create perfectly tailored jackets of all kinds, more like a second skin than clothing, as well as precise and painstaking work with cuts, inserts and, of course, decoration and embroidery. The products could be seen live at McQueen’s flagship store in London.
Speaking of the latter. The brand’s team liberally embroidered evening gowns with beading and garlands of antique crystals, then placed the same full appliqués on jacket dresses, leather bras, velvet ankle boots, sandals, and even minaudières. And to balance this part of the collection, he sewed a set of skirt and top, multi-tiered and translucent dresses, in which appeared the same orchids, discovered by Burton in Victorian botany.