How not to spin? The cafe has a funny name that you will not forget: “Madame Ku-Ku”. The empanadas it contains are signature and melt in your mouth. And the hostess Anastasia told us the amazing story of the emergence of a whole ward, which last year was named Petrovsky. How else? Peter I, the founder of Taganrog, opened a window to Europe, and today the Taganrog quarter is the same window.
Previously, the first confectionery factory in Taganrog was located on this place, over the years it fell into disrepair. Its old facades, as well as the walls of the nearby buildings, had long since decayed and required the hand of a master. She became the hand of Nastya’s father, in the past a sea captain. In Soviet times, he sailed on large merchant ships and saw many countries, cities, amazing architectural objects. Even then, he dreamed of a street lined with beautiful buildings in his hometown. The idea came to fruition many years later.
The remains of the factory were demolished and unusual houses began to appear on the vacant lot. The first houses are closer to modern solutions to fit into the panorama of Petrovskaya street. Then the Dutch style appears, with flat surfaces, without elements, but high triangular gables of the roofs. “Now, of course, they are not built like that, such gables were dictated by the fact that the streets in the cities were very narrow. There were also winches on the upper floors – to lift furniture from the street,” says the architect. Vladislav Fedorenko. Also, a knowledgeable person will “read” a reference to both English and Venetian architecture: terraces, columns. And then there is an Art Nouveau brick with colored majolica, both Vasnetsov and Vrubel worked with it, in the same style in Taganrog, a unique building of the Museum of Urban Planning and Life. And the colors of the majolica were chosen in the colors of the native Taganrog Bay.
On the square itself, lined with small cobblestones, there is a hand-molded red brick building as a symbol of the Russian Empire and a “dry” fountain. And the bell tower became the visual center. In fact, nobody visits him; but it completes the image of a European street. The craftsmen also made a copy of the telephone booth, like in London.
– So this is not a copy of a postcard from an Amsterdam street, – says Vladislav. – We only use architectural techniques and details typical of European urbanism.
Thus, within seven years, the European Quarter, now renamed Petrovsky, grew up in the city. It is, as expected, pedestrianized, there are cafes and restaurants, and during gastrofestivals there is nowhere for an apple to fall.
Flat walls and high gabled roofs, due to the small size of the streets. They don’t build like that anymore. Photo: oknot-taganrog.ru
The story of “Madame Kuku” began with an ordinary decree. All the time Anastasia was absorbed by children, family, and there were no special plans to go to work. But the desire to get out of the routine and do something for the soul grew. And the young mother began to bake pasta at night. These are such exquisite French cakes made from almond flour with unusual fillings: pink, mint, salted caramel. It turned out to be a masterpiece, and the next morning Anastasia photographed her creations, described entertaining stories and posted them on social media. Ten years ago this was new. “Everything was very sincere and simple, that’s how my hobby turned into a job,” she recalls.
– The name fell on my head like an apple to Newton. Once I was preparing for my daughter’s birthday. I hung high – I wanted to make a whole chocolate bar myself. The third day passed, something did not work out, and I redid it, achieving the result. I was incredibly tired … In a state of exhaustion, I sat down at the kitchen table and, hanging my head sadly, said to myself: “I am some kind of Madame Ku-Ku!” Ku-Ku is a slight madness, a passion that cannot be stopped. Baking cakes at night and treating loved ones is my Ku-Ku.
Terraces, modern brick with colored majolica. Both Vasnetsov and Vrubel worked on it. And the colors were chosen in the colors of the Taganrog Bay.
When the opportunity to open a family business presented itself one day, he did not think of big things: enough of an oven and a couple of tables. But then more: in a cafe there should be not only cakes, but also salads with soups, and there were no longer a couple of tables, but a couple of dozen. And I did not have to think about the name of the cafe for a long time. Good food is one side of the cafeteria. From the beginning it developed as a club. Here wine festivals, intellectual meetings with speakers, student master classes are held, a book club is based, and an exhibition and sale of contemporary art works.
Thus, another point of attraction for tourists appeared in Taganrog. And the Petrovsky Quarter, according to the results of the voting of the National Geographic Traveler magazine, was ranked third among the most interesting public spaces in the Treasures of Russia competition.