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Long live Magenta. Why rubies are relevant again and how to use them?
We enter the next year with the right mood and color: purple stones will match both the Pantone trend and the request for renewal and rebirth.
Text: Alla Sharandina
Design: Vladimir Duban
Magenta is the Pantone Color of the Year 2023, an uncompromising and pristine shade of red. Unbelievably beautiful, but just as daring and quarrelsome. Seamlessly fitting it into your life (and New Year’s arc) seems to be a bit more difficult than the Color Institute’s previous picks. The most elegant solution, perhaps, will be pulsating points of precious magenta – we voted for rubies and rubellites in MIUZ jewelry.
Long live life, Long live Magenta!
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“The color of the year Viva Magenta is powerful and inspiring. It is a red that delights in joy, encourages limitless experimentation and self-expression, an electrifying and limitless hue,” Pantone said in a press release. It seems that we are dealing with the case in which the form is completely determined by the content.
The color itself received its name in 1859: London industrial chemist Edward Chambers Nicholson named the new paint after the Lombard town of Magenta, which was written about in all the newspapers that year. It was there, not far from the narrow streets with endless terracotta roofs, that one of the most important battles for the independence of Italy took place. Magenta has become a symbol of insolence, courage and reckless call of the heart – the Piedmontese attacked superior enemy forces. And a shade of red, mixed with a drop of purple, was identified with strength, honor and, of course, passion: for life, victory and happiness.
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history of rubies
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It is not difficult to find the embodiment of the magenta color in nature – rubies correspond exactly to it. Minerals that grow in the bowels of the earth, maintaining the power of primordial matter, have been considered a rare find since the beginning of time. They were called kings of stones both in ancient Greece and much later: Philip Valois’s 12th-century lapidary proclaims that rubies are “the most precious of the Lord’s creations, most beloved, so beautiful with their gay color.” . The chronicler’s contemporaries speak of them as burning coals through which one can look at the sun itself.
And although in the Middle Ages there was no more mysterious and important stone, until the 15th century ruby was known as a great rarity in Europe. Since time immemorial (archaeologists claim that since the Bronze Age) it has been mined in Myanmar, but instead of real stones, only legends about red “dragon eggs” found in caves more often reached our lands. The situation changed in the 1990s: the Mong-Su region of Myanmar became the main mining area on the planet, and Burmese rubies finally spread throughout the world and gained worldwide fame.
Since the middle of the last century, the attention of jewelers who gravitate towards red has also shifted to precious rubellites. The ruby’s twin, a relative of tourmaline, ripens in the rocks of Brazil, in several American states, Africa, Italy, the Czech Republic and the Urals.
We find out how and with what to wear jewelry with the most relevant gems of this year.
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Sign the statement: brooches are back in the game
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The most conspicuous drop of red in the image can add a brooch. For a couple of decades, this decoration delicately, aristocratically receded into the shadows. But it kept appearing in the press. True, instead of brilliance, the brooch took a place in the investigations section: both British tabloids and Russian business newspapers were engaged in interpreting the clues given with the help of this jewelry. Until now it is not known for sure what Princess Michael of Kent and the head of the Russian Central Bank meant by attaching their striking brooches to their jacket lapel, but both the public and journalists understood that this was a statement. – decor.
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Brooch with diamonds and rubellite
Brooch with diamonds and rubellite
What to wear with: Wear it with a black wool dress, pin it to a decorative scarf at a social dinner, or frame a formal suit.
In 2023, the brooch is ready for revenge. It remains a statement, especially placed in the region of the heart. But at the same time, it also works very well as a fashion detail: on a scarf, a belt and even a turban. This arrangement is in keeping with the Art Deco style of the MIUZ brooch with diamonds and 16-carat rubellite. The impressive weight is softened by the cabochon cut: the smooth edges of the stone give it a soft shine without sparkle. Rays of diamonds of different cuts are responsible for the brilliance here.
What to wear with: Pin two corners of the collar of a cotton shirt so that the brooch is in the middle, or accent the cuffs of your favorite jacket (it is important that it is not made of dense fabric).
The antipodal brooch is also in the MIUZ collection – its sharp corners are rounded in the spirit of airy Art Nouveau. Lines of diamonds intertwine like ribbons in rhythmic gymnastics, creating symmetrical swirls around a unique rubellite weighing over 4.5 carats.
Forever: ruby on the finger.
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Another win-win way to wear a cheery red is to define it on the hand with a large cocktail ring drop. Such jewelry is called the heart of the party with full historical justification: these rings appeared in America in the 1920s during prohibition, when all flappers were forced to switch to cocktails in order to soften the taste of counterfeit alcohol. Long drinks had to be held in the hand much longer than flutes or champagnes, meaning the hand remained in the spotlight throughout the night. In the same way, it is now in focus, regardless of whether we are gesturing while speaking or taking a selfie. The perfect link to the party-goers of ages past, this ring features a nearly 9-carat rubellite held in white gold predatory teeth and a sea knot of diamond lines.
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Ring with diamonds and rubellite
With what to wear: with everything to which the soul lies. Such a ring cannot be put aside in a drawer in anticipation of a special exit; must be shown. Combined with a cocktail dress for a social Christmas tree, combined with a delicate satin suit for a dinner with a loved one, or simply with a casual look at a gathering with friends.
Pair output: all at once
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For generations of the second half of the 20th century, wearing jewelry together was the most common option: small rings, pendants, and earrings were sold in sets and featured in publicity shots in this way. Influencers are making clothes fashionable again. Only not in small ways, like Catherine Deneuve’s respectable heroines, but with beautiful biting rhyme.
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They shine brighter than the stars in the tree
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An example would be a set of earrings and a ring set with ennobled rubies. Red stones, surrounded by two rows of diamonds (smaller on the inside and larger on the outside) and similar to raspberries in their wavy edge, it is logical to use as berries, if not a basket, then a whole handful.
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Ruby and diamond earrings
Ring with diamonds and ruby
What to wear with: Definitely for the New Year, because as soon as you celebrate the year, that’s how you will spend it. Wear it for a celebration with a figure-shaped dress from the magenta palette (related shades) or play on contrast – black and white outfits will only emphasize the brilliance of diamonds and rubellites.
Closer to the heart and beautiful to hold a glass.
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Resembling a drop of elixir, the pear-shaped Rubellite around your neck will attract attention with a mysterious magnet. The necklace from the Royal collection seems to carry the metaphor of eternal life from the Middle Ages to the present day. The ring with the stone of the same name, framed by 52 diamonds, turning into a stem, will become an ideal match for him. Believe me, the light will play around him: with just one gesture, he will see how a scattering of stones shines even in a dimly lit room.
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Necklace with diamonds and rubellite
Ring with diamonds and rubellite
What to wear with: always with a neckline and open forearm. Let nothing distract the eyes of others from the combination of rubellites and your skin. An off-the-shoulder black cocktail dress is the perfect accompaniment to a ball, even if you’re just attending a gala presentation at the Bolshoi.
MIUZ is a new international brand of the Moscow Jewelry Factory, which has existed since the 1920s: first as an artel of independent jewelers, then as the largest enterprise of the Metallurgical Industry Administration, in all years, as the main point of attraction for the best jewelers, cutters, enamelers and engravers in the country. In 2022, MIUZ remains the only brand with a complete cycle of production and sale of real Russian diamond jewelry.
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Reklama, JSC “Moscow Jewelry Factory” TIN-7724181241, token: 4CQwVszH9pSWMMZ3Bsk
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