What Nicolas Ghesquière certainly learned to do in his ten years at Louis Vuitton was pick venues, primarily for cruise shows.
Resort 2024 that the designer spent on the lake, more precisely in the gardens of Isola Bella, located on the private island of Maggiore, owned by the Italian Borromeo clan for 500 years. “There are beautiful places in Italy to visit,” Ghesquière explained, “but the lakes are so mysterious.”
From the first minutes it was clear that the designer was very impressed with the aquatic environment: “We started with the idea that the girls would appear out of the water, like mermaids in the lake, and then they would become something else.”
Thus, the show opened with raindrop wetsuits and scuba gear with collars resembling gills and fins, followed by skirts made entirely of iridescent scales (which also appeared on mini bags, dresses and vests) and baroque headdresses. They were specially made in a Roman workshop, which actively cooperates with opera and cinema. The cruise marked the French house’s debut in Italy and, as Vogue points out, a very timely one: LV’s new CEO, Pietro Beccari, is Italian. In addition, Nicolás wanted to pay tribute to the country’s craft heritage.
However, the mermaids were only the first part of the collection. The second consisted of things more everyday and understandable for Jesquière’s audience: sweatshirts combined with loose masculine shorts; classic-cut coats over sparkling dresses; tandem leather shirts with a translucent embroidered skirt. But that is not all. In the end, according to Nicolás, the mermaid turned into a flower, perhaps non-existent, and yet. Therefore, in the finale of the show – pastel and caramel dresses made of silk, organza and lace with draping and feathers along the hem and airy sleeves.