A few days before yesterday’s program, Anthony Vaccarello published on the banned channel an excerpt from the 26-minute 1950 short film “Love Song”, directed by Jean Genet and dedicated to sensuality, homoeroticism and survival in a prison environment. Vaccarello also shared the name of the future collection: “Each person kills what he loves.”
The Saint Laurent men’s show was held at the Kraftwerk space in Berlin. And here was everything we love Vaccarello and the Saint Laurent archives so much for. Namely: broad-shouldered (and very broad-shouldered) jackets paired with fitted trousers, the masculinity of which was opposed by transparent blouses with trains and the lightest basic tops with a very deep neckline. The images were complemented by boots (yes, that’s right) with heels (you read everything right). This men’s season was definitely a continuation of the women’s fall-winter season: “I started building a collection around the shapes and silhouettes of women’s clothing that men now wear,” Vaccarello said. “He started with something very classic and then played with codes of masculinity.” Hence the leopard and polka dot (a motif that recurs with enviable regularity), which appeared on funnel-necked shirts, coats, and sultry one-shoulder tops. The tuxedos that opened and closed this show deserve a separate line of admiration, in the best traditions of Yves Saint Laurent and Vaccarello himself.