Louis Vuitton’s cruise collection was shown in San Diego at the Salk Institute for Biological Research. The institution consists of two groups of laboratories surrounding a central alley with a narrow geometric fountain: the complex’s architect, Louis Kahn, wanted to create a metaphor for infinity, so from a certain angle it looks as if the water is pouring directly into the Ocean. According to his own plan, the elements here pass into each other: a stream of water-in concrete, sunlight-in the air between the buildings.
The brutalist building concept of the 1960s also influenced the collection itself. The Louis Vuitton show took place at sunset: metallic fabrics shimmered magnetically in the sun, and the halter tops on these stages resembled the clothing of nomadic peoples (as well as Denis Villeneuve’s Dune suits). The collection also includes chain mail tops, armored anoraks and futuristic leather suits. Nicolas Ghesquière would not be himself if he had not mixed different periods and styles: the silhouettes of voluminous jacquard dresses are taken from the 18th century, but with their colors they recall the desert landscapes of the planet Arrakis, that is, they refer more to the future than to the last.
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