On the occasion of the Fendi Couture Fall/Winter 2023 show in Paris during Haute Couture Week in July, the Italian company presented the first Fendi Triptych high jewelery collection. Designed by the creative director Delfina-Delettre Fendi, it combines the austerity of Roman architecture with asymmetries. It is a neoclassical exercise in graphic abstraction that transforms the FF calligraphic motif into a thousand graceful expressions.
In three chapters – Roma Rosa, Gioiello Giallo and Bianco Brillante – there is a story about light: the brilliance of white diamonds is refracted in shades of pale pink and yellow. The Fendi High Jewelry palette is presented in powdery tones. Exceptional white and yellow diamonds, green, yellow, orange, pink and spinel sapphires: all these stones were selected by Delphine Delettre-Fendi herself and the in-house gemologist.
Each jewel is imbued with historical elements of the brand’s language, from trompe l’oeil FF motifs “hidden” from view to designs that combine sensuality and geometry. The severity of the rectangular (baguette) cut itself is a reference to Fendi’s iconic baguette bag. The FF geometric motifs appear and disappear like mirages on necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings.
Part of the Roma Rosa recalls the multicolored hues of Rome’s faded marble, mosaics, and frescoes. It is a fairy tale with pear, oval and octagonal cut pink sapphires and a spinel surrounded by transparent diamonds. The cocktail ring, drop earrings and bracelet are made with the same hinge structure.
The Gioiello Giallo piece plays with the iconic Fendi yellow. Its history dates back to the introduction of parchment leather in the 1930s. Two parures (sets) and a collection of cocktail rings range in hue from elegant bright yellow diamonds to yellow sapphires. Gioiello Giallo’s masterpiece diamond necklace: a double row of baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds embellished with an FF motif on the left side, culminating in a diamond pendant chain intersected by a brilliant pear-cut yellow diamond.
The Bianco Brillante piece embodies the purity and brilliance of clear diamonds. Mosaic FF motifs can be seen on the necklace, bracelet and earrings. A spiral combination of the same motifs forms the basis of the second parure (set) of this movement.
