Ever since Jean-Paul Gaultier chose a new format to work with the haute couture collection (each season invites designers to rethink their own archives), the brand’s shows have been eagerly awaited. And this is definitely a successful movement vector.
For the 2023 Jean Paul Gaultier couture collection, Gaultier hired Julien Dossin. A designer who feels confident and a brand he has been working for since 2013. It is Rabanne (yes, now also without Paco).
Dossena managed to connect two worlds (JPG and Rabanne) in the most delicate way, leaving of course a place for personal expression. Thus, the image of Gauthier’s debut haute couture collection in 1997 with a blue satin skirt, high gloves and a massive decoration on a bare chest in Julien’s reading turned out more restrained, but no less spectacular: the chest was hidden with the Paco- Rabanov Technique: an upper part made of intertwined chains, rings and stones. It took the team about a week and a half to create it. A “naked” dress also appeared here – the false print was replaced by silver chain mail. Also noticed was a fresh take on the dress (still the same 1997 collection) with a floor-length red skirt and silk corset. The latter is decorated with images of Chinese dragons. According to Dossen’s idea, the lower part of the dress was repainted in silver, and on top they added the emphasis on the chest, which is significant for Gaultier (a reference to Madonna’s cone bra). It should be noted that Julien also walked past Jean-Paul’s film past – in the current show we saw a velvet dress with a low shoulder line in red roses. Gauthier sewed the original version (however, like all the costumes) for Luc Besson’s The Fifth Element.
A special thanks to Dossena for the casting: Natalia Vodianova opened the show and Letizia Casta walked in the finale (in the best JPG tradition).
