Jonathan Anderson called the men’s collection for spring-summer 2025 “A radical act of restraint.” And, perhaps, by the standards of the designer’s flight of thought that we are all accustomed to, the show seemed really balanced.
As a reference for the scenography, Loewe’s creative director chose the works of the photographer Peter Hujar, the architects Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Carlo Scarpa and the artist Paul Thek (they were distributed throughout the perimeter of the space). “I wanted to combine something very personal to me. Various artists and architects who have unique voices in their fields.” Anderson took tailoring as the basis for the collection and rethought the notorious office core (definitely one of the obvious trends of the season). As befits a designer, in his own way artistic and surreal.
The show opened with three black pantsuits, accompanied by gold feathers attached to the headband, and Loewe handkerchief-style blouses. As models appeared on the runway, these same blouses became brighter, the brand logo became lighter, and the feathers became more varied. Later, Anderson mixed pants with tops that resemble goldfish scales and showed off her version of baggy pants; Now they are worn combined with a bare torso and draped at the waist with a brand patch. Leather jackets here look like mini dresses, knitted sweaters are again worn with pants, but made of wool. Bags that resemble a gold bar coexist with chain mail blouses, checks of all stripes, and belts become part of a polo shirt.
