08/26/24, 17:47 2024-08-26T17:47:42+03:00
Last week, BURO editor Nastya Drozdova, like most of her colleagues in the industry, spent time in Yekaterinburg, where the UF LAB Ural Fashion Week was held under the creative direction of Katya Mukhina. Five venues were chosen for the exhibition (Yeltsin Center, Youth Palace, Sinara Center, Domna creative cluster and the museum complex in Verkhnyaya Pyshma), and designers from Russia, Belarus, Spain, Turkey and China, the United Arab Emirates and South Africa were invited as participants.
Fashion Week opened with the first Ruban show in several years: the brand brought the spring-summer 2025 collection to Yekaterinburg. Sisters Alisa and Yulia continued to experiment with their favourite suede, silk, knitwear and cape garments. At the show, which, by the way, was held in a complex in Verkhnyaya Pyshma (one of the largest technological museums in Russia) surrounded by lacquered vintage cars and live music, the models came out in classic jackets, dresses with long trains and sequined minis, skirts and transparent tops. Ruban also showed a confident group of accessories: roomy suede bags, belt clutches, leather flip-flops and neck bags caught the eye.
On the second day of the Week, the famous Yeltsin Center became a focal point, where Uzbek brands Moel Bosh and Suzani by Kasimbaeva demonstrated their joint work. As part of the collaboration “Continuity of Generations”, both created dresses, capes, coats, shirts and skirts from handmade fabrics with traditional suzani embroidery. The materials were woven in Margilan, the city of silk and cotton. I liked the firebird leaves, the combination of turquoise and beige and the scarf.
Vika Gazinskaya decided to remember the best and thus pave the way to the future in a monument of architectural modernism – the Palace of Youth. On an improvised podium among old trams, several parts of a retrospective collection of 57 looks were on display. The first was dedicated to evening dresses, and the second to what we love to wear every day (transparent, long-sleeved blouses in grey, combined with midi skirts in brick colour, matching hats and gloves). The finale is coats with toy foxes in the style of Jonathan Anderson and dresses with prints reminiscent of pencil strokes.
You Wanna and Rushev staged a joint show here (at the Youth Palace). Yulia Alekseeva brought to Yekaterinburg the wardrobe of the same girl who easily combines shiny and patent leather trench coats with leggings, wears transparent blouses with ruffles with oversized jeans and is not afraid to wear predatory prints and tight dresses with or without occasion. To combine them (dresses), she chooses massive chains, laconic cuffs and bracelets that can be confidently worn as a necklace – all from Gosha Rushev.
The synergy between masculine and feminine was fully felt at the Annúko show in Yekaterinburg, which was led by Anna Onokhina. The Discord collection is exactly what Onokhina is most inspired by. That is, the unbridled energy of the modern woman. Women who prefer to choose broad-shouldered jackets and biker jackets, voluminous (very voluminous) coats and trench coats to pair with straight-cut trousers, bustier skirts, fitted and flowing dresses. Truly powerful clothing for powerful women.
Moscow-based Gooroo and its founder Lena Kozlovskaya put on an absolutely airy show – guests saw it at the Sinara Center exhibition complex. The spring-summer 2025 collection was called Bed&Breakfast for a reason, but because of sensual dresses and even more sensual tops and skirts in pastel shades of French lace, velvet mesh from Japan, transparent organza and natural silk.
For Gooroo, Kirill Rastrubin and Ramazan Zauzanov showed a collection of bestsellers and novelties. The Sencellerie brand is their work, as is the outerwear in which the designers specialize. Oversized, short and floor-length fur coats (in the best Saint Laurent tradition), and the brand also makes coats, jackets and jackets from mink, fox, yak, sheepskin and leather. By the way, Kirill and Ramazan have their own production, and all lined products here are made of natural silk according to traditional patterns. The main wish of the season is a long fur tie!
The final day of the shows, which took place in the Domna creative cluster, was opened by Leonid Alekseev with the House of Leo men’s autumn-winter 2025 collection. The designer dedicated it to puzzles, so there are a lot of optical illusions in the collection. Floral prints and embroidery in the decor, which we also notice on accessories (cufflinks, brooches and pendants). The materials include thick denim or wool imitating denim, linen and wet silk.
Last but not least, on our list is a show by the Gapanovich brand from Murmansk. Designer Sasha Gapanovich has been known to the editors for a long time (and other articles can be safely found in the Front Fashion selection). The works of the classic Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin, or rather “The Tale of Tsar Saltan”, became the starting point for the creation of this collection. We saw real “swan princesses” on the catwalk: white dresses, skirts, shirts, blouses, trench coats and jackets with characteristic flounces, hand-knitted fabrics, voluminous ruffles and flounces.
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